Water Stewardship in Fashion: Reducing Consumption

Retailers and suppliers face increasing pressure to find solutions from all sides to reduce excessive water consumption and pollution caused in the fashion value chain. Consumers are concerned about the environmental impact of their clothing choices, while government legislation and regulations are tightening. In addition, communities around the world, particularly those living near polluted rivers and water sources, are demanding change.

This article highlights the importance of sensible water stewardship in the fashion industry. We examine the responsibilities of suppliers and retailers and outline ways they can stop water pollution and waste along the value chain.

The Problems with Water Usage in Textiles

The water footprint of the textile industry is phenomenal. The European Environmental Agency reported that, compared with other consumption categories, “textiles consumption in the EU caused in 2020 the third highest pressures on water and land use.”

On average in 2020, producing clothes and shoes for each EU citizen required nine cubic metres of water, 400 square metres of land, and 391 kilograms of raw materials each year. Source

Some fabrics require more consideration than others regarding depleting water resources. For example, cotton production is extremely water-intensive (20,000 litres of water are required to produce 1kg of cotton). Plus it’s the most used of all fibres in the world and accounts for 40% of global textile production.

(For more, read our article on transitioning to sustainable cotton production.)

Aside from dirtying clean water, such high volumes of water consumption, for example in irrigation, diverting water out of rivers and lakes can create water shortages for local populations. The Environmental Justice Foundation report from 2012 documents how cotton has drained the Aral Sea in Central Asia, which it cites was significantly caused by intensive cotton production in Uzbekistan from the 1960s onwards.

This has caused localised climate change: “the summers become shorter and drier, the winters become longer and colder, and annual rainfall decrease”, which in turn is exacerbated by global warming. And this is just the tip of the iceberg (pardon the pun) when looking at the negative effects of water mismanagement in the region.

The Problems with Water Pollution in the Textile Industry

Dyeing and finishing processes in textile production are thought to be responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution.

Pollution affects every stage of the value chain—from run-off from farming in the cotton fields to toxic chemicals used in dyes that leak into rivers. Rivers in countries like Bangladesh have been severely contaminated due to dye and chemicals emptied into their waterways, impacting local ecosystems and communities. Even washing clothes can release microplastics into the water, further intensifying the pollution problem.

How to Reduce Water Usage and Pollution in the Supply Chain

The statistics tell a depressing story. The good news is there is a vast movement within the fashion industry already underway to tackle water mismanagement, waste and pollution problems. New initiatives, technologies, and regulations are constantly emerging. We explore some of the current and potential solutions:

Get Visibility of your Supply Chain

Companies can’t reduce water consumption and pollution in the value chain when they don't know exactly when and where it’s happening. Therefore the first and most important step to tackle the problem is to gain visibility of the entire supply chain. By identifying suppliers involved in water-intensive processes, like laundry and dyeing, companies can take targeted action. An excellent example of how this can work is practice is River Island’s partnership with Segura. Segura’s software gives River Island the ability to collect data on its supply chain and gain visibility of dyeing and laundry processes. This has allowed them to introduce the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) wastewater guidance to their top 20 suppliers and their wet processing sites.

Sustainable Sourcing

Producing the fibres from raw materials is often the most water-intensive process. Therefore it's important to source materials that have lower water requirements.

One way this can be done is by using organic or recycled materials.

A good example of the impact can be seen with organic cotton farming. One study found that organic cotton farming can reduce the amount of water used by 91%. This is due to the fact the organic soil holds water better which can reduce the need for irrigation. There are also cons to organic cotton farming, such as higher costs and insecurity of supply, which we explore here, but buyers can gradually increase percentages of organic cotton in their ranges over time as supply expands and agricultural methods improve. Responsibly sourced cotton is also a stepping stone to better environmental results with a lower risk of failed crops. 

Use Eco-Friendly Dyes, Processes and Finishes

One way to reduce water pollution is to examine and change how fabrics are dyed. There are numerous initiatives that could revolutionise the dyeing process to reduce or even eliminate water use.

An impressive, cohesive example of how fashion brands can work with suppliers to successfully introduce better regenerative practices and reduce impacts, has been highlighted by Safia Minney founder of Fashion Declares, working alongside  Middlesex University. Sree Santhosh in India manufactures organic cotton clothing, utilising rainwater harvesting, and a Zero Discharge treatment plant (ZDHC) dyeing facility that cleans water by reverse osmosis and re-uses 90% of it in the next dyeing batch.

Here is a round-up of other example solutions from across the world:

• The British company Colorfix has produced micro-based dyes. They have introduced a variety of pigments to the market, including indigos, mauves, pastels, and beiges, all created through bacteria that have been genetically engineered to produce specific colour-making enzymes. 
• A small female-run company called Kakani Himalayan Natural Dyes, located in Nepal uses only natural dyes in the dyeing process. The process is still water-intensive but could eliminate chemical pollution in the riverways. 
• Crystal Blue is a manufacturer and distributor of water structuring units in India. The units use innovative technology that mimics the natural flow of water through vortex flow, minerals, and materials to enhance water quality. Their products are particularly advantageous for the textile industry, offering up to a 35% increase in output, a 35% reduction in merceriser-neutralising acid consumption, a 25% reduction in water use in knit washers, and reduced reliance on soaping liquids in washing machines.
• Waterless dyeing and supercritical CO2 dyeing are two processes that reduce water and energy consumption. H&M is also testing waterless dyeing with an  Indian start-up company Deven Supercriticals.
• Shree Pushkar Chemicals also based in India has introduced innovative dyes such as the Dyecol ESR series, which require less water and energy compared to traditional dyes. They also offer salt-free reactive dyes and PCA-free blacks that reduce environmental impact.
• In the US, Dow has created ECOFAST Pure and ColorZen a pre-treatment process which both significantly reduces dye and water use by enhancing cotton's ability to retain dyes, cutting down on toxic chemicals and water waste.

Education and collaboration

Educating suppliers and internal teams on water stewardship is another way companies can help reduce water usage.

Another example of best practice in this area is from TFG Brands London. Through the retailer's work with Segura and Canopy Planet, TFG Brands London is committed to educating their buying and sourcing teams on the importance of selecting suppliers that adopt sustainable practices. This awareness can help drive long-term change across the supply chain in many areas, including water use.

Regulation and Compliance

Governments and global standards like the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) initiative play a crucial role in promoting sustainable water management. The regulation encourages change with regional infrastructure investment but also requires companies to meet specific environmental standards, driving the adoption of water-saving and pollution-reducing technologies, with regional infrastructure investment but also requires.

Challenges in Meeting the Demands of Reducing Water Usage and Pollution

Of course, there are challenges to reducing water consumption:

• Technological and Cost barriers - Not all suppliers have access to advanced technologies needed to reduce water consumption or treat wastewater effectively. It can require significant investment to test new initiatives. There may also be a lack of infrastructure or expertise to implement new solutions in some regions.
• Limited Education and Training - Many suppliers, especially in developing countries, may not have sufficient knowledge or training on sustainable practices, such as effective wastewater treatment or water recycling techniques. This lack of expertise can make it harder to adopt pollution-reducing measures.
• Supply Chain Complexity - In many cases, the fashion supply chain is fragmented, with multiple tiers of suppliers involved. This makes it difficult for a single supplier to implement water-saving measures without collaboration from all other partners in the value chain.

How Can Segura Help? 

Segura offers a powerful solution for tackling water consumption and pollution within the fashion value chain by providing unparalleled visibility into the supply chain.

The Segura platform enables retailers to map and monitor every stage of production, from water-intensive processes like dyeing and finishing to supplier management.

By partnering with companies like TFG Brands London and River Island, Segura has demonstrated its ability to help brands implement sustainability measures.

This data-driven approach allows companies to identify inefficiencies and make informed decisions to reduce water usage, promote eco-friendly processes, and minimise pollution across the value chain.

Read more about how supply chain transparency can help sustainability.