Cotton is one of the most widely used fibres in the world, but how sustainable is it, really? In an age of fast fashion, we’re buying (and throwing away) more clothes than ever before. Cotton, as a soft, breathable and incredibly versatile natural fibre, sits at the heart of much of this production. From everyday t-shirts to bed linen, it’s everywhere. But as the fashion industry’s environmental and social impact comes under increasing scrutiny, the sustainability of cotton has become a major target for brands, retailers and policymakers alike.
With so many different textiles on the market, why single out cotton? In this article, we take a closer look at cotton’s role in modern fashion and explore whether it can truly be sustainable. We’ll unpack the key challenges facing cotton production today and examine how more responsible sourcing standards, credible certification schemes, regenerative farming practices and greater supply chain transparency could help drive meaningful change.
Table of contents:
What is Cotton and How is it Produced?
Is Cotton Sustainable? The Key Challenges
How Can We Make Cotton Sustainable?
Innovation in Cotton Processing
How Can Retailers and Brands Transition to Sustainable Cotton
Why focus on cotton?
Cotton is a well-loved, familiar material; it's breathable, it's comfortable, it's natural and it is fashion's second most popular fibre after polyester. Yet the vast majority of cotton farms are heavily industrialised and it is by far one of the most polluting and environmentally damaging crops in the world...
Each year, 26.2 million tonnes of cotton is produced for the textile and apparel industries. It has the potential to be a sustainable, net-zero fabric of the future, but today its production and use have a major negative environmental impact and undermine the industry’s ability to maintain future production.
Because cotton is so deeply embedded in global supply chains, even small improvements in how it is grown and processed can have a significant environmental and social impact. Conversely, unsustainable cotton production threatens water security, soil health, biodiversity and long-term supply resilience.
For brands and retailers, cotton is therefore one of the most important materials to address when developing credible sustainability strategies.
What is cotton and how is it produced?
Cotton is a natural fibre harvested from the seedpod (boll) of the cotton plant, part of the mallow family. While there are more than 30 recognised cotton species, only four are commercially cultivated.
Cotton is primarily grown in tropical and subtropical regions, where it requires warm temperatures and reliable water supplies. After harvesting, cotton fibres are spun into yarn, woven or knitted into fabric, and then subjected to finishing processes such as bleaching, dyeing and treatment before becoming finished products.
Each of these stages contributes to cotton’s overall environmental footprint.
Is Cotton sustainable? the Key challenges
The major problems with cotton production are water consumption and contamination, chemical use, pollution and soil erosion and degradation.
Water use and water pollution
One of the biggest sustainability challenges in the cotton industry is water consumption. Did you know that it takes 2,700 litres of water to produce one t-shirt? This video clearly illustrates the cotton production process and why cotton is a priority material for net zero transition.
Fast-growing cotton crops require intense irrigation, chemical fertilisers and pesticides. The huge amount of water used depletes natural water reserves significantly and causes ecological damage.
Cotton processing, particularly for denim, also requires several stages of wet processing which produces large amounts of wastewater. Bleaching and dyeing cotton can also cause contaminated wastewater in local rivers and water bodies.
Chemical use and soil degradation
Conventional cotton farming relies heavily on synthetic fertilisers, pesticides and herbicides. Although cotton is grown on a relatively small proportion of global agricultural land, it accounts for a disproportionately high share of insecticide use.
Farming practices also result in the loss of carbon from the soil, the reduction of soil health and the loss of ecological diversity.
Over time, this weakens land productivity and increases farmers’ dependence on chemical inputs, creating long-term environmental and economic risks.
Labour and human rights risks
Sustainability in the cotton industry also includes social responsibility. Historically, the impact of cotton sourcing has had huge links to slavery. In the 1800s, cotton was one of the world’s most luxurious commodities and became the first mass consumer commodity. The high value of cotton is partly due to the cheap (or non-existent) labour costs involved in its production at the height of the slave trade. According to Steven Deyle, the value of slaves in 1860 was “roughly three times greater than the total amount invested in banks”.
Today, human rights abuses in the global cotton industry are still widespread. For example, the Xinjiang region in Northwest China is a major producer (supplying ~20% of the world's cotton). However in the last few years this region has been at the centre of allegations involving forced, coercive, and penal labour, with evidence of forced labour specifically related to cotton picking.
On the plus side progress has been made, including the verified elimination of state-imposed forced labour in Uzbekistan’s cotton harvests from 2021 onward. However, risks remain in many parts of the global supply chain.
Issues such as informal labour, unsafe working conditions, child labour and wage insecurity continue to affect cotton-growing communities in some regions including Turkmenistan and India, underscoring the importance of credible standards and oversight.
How can we make cotton sustainable?
While cotton faces serious challenges, it also has the potential to be produced far more sustainably. The path forward lies in improving how cotton is grown, processed and traced.
Sustainable cotton production options:
Organic cotton...
Cultivated without the use of synthetic fertilisers, pesticides or genetic modification, organic cotton significantly reduces the industry's reliance on chemicals and promotes soil health. It is supposed that organic cotton uses less water than conventional cotton, to what extent is contested, but it is likely because pesticide use increases water usage whereas organic cotton farms can rely on rain and groundwater.
However, problems arise from a shortage of supply and high costs. Organic cotton is more expensive and more susceptible to crop failure, making it vulnerable to supply issues. To grow the same yields as a conventional crop organic cotton farmers would need more land and more water. As this Forbes article expounds: "organic [cotton] farming has significant growth limitations despite being ecologically sound" and thus makes up just 1% of annual cotton yields.
Furthermore, ironically, increased demand means sourcing organic cotton is more difficult, has a longer lead-in, and is pushing up the price.
Certifying Organic Cotton
Organic cotton is commonly certified under the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), a premier certification for textiles produced from organic raw materials. GOTS defines strict environmental and social criteria across the entire supply chain, from farming through to processing and manufacturing. It covers various textile products including clothing, home textiles, personal care products, and food contact textiles.
Segura’s software solutions can help retailers achieve certifications including GOTS.
Responsibly sourced cotton
As organic cotton can be expensive and short in supply, responsibly sourced cotton initiatives can form a strategic stepping stone to sustainability.
Responsibly sourced cotton initiatives aim to improve conventional cotton farming by reducing water use, minimising harmful chemicals, protecting workers’ rights and improving farmer livelihoods.
Responsibly sourced cotton is usually less expensive than organic cotton. Initiatives work hard to train the farmers to use water efficiently and to care for natural habitats, reducing harmful chemicals and respecting workers' rights. These initiatives usually permit the use of pesticides and genetically modified seeds – allowing for higher yields and lower input costs for farmers. [Source: The Organic Cotton Connundrum].
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is the world’s largest cotton sustainability programme and is a good indicator of where cotton has been responsibly sourced. It trains farmers in water stewardship, soil health, integrated pest management and decent work principles. Today, Better Cotton accounts for over 20% of global cotton production, making it a critical lever for large-scale change.
Recycled and circular cotton
Reducing reliance on virgin cotton is another key strategy. Standards such as the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) verify recycled cotton content and chain-of-custody, supporting circular textile systems and lowering the overall environmental footprint of cotton products.
The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) is a stricter and more wide-ranging certification, whereas the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) is mainly concerned with verifying chain of custody for products containing smaller amounts of recycled material. GRS typically requires at least 50% recycled content (or 20% in certain cases) and also covers social and environmental criteria, as well as chemical use restrictions. In contrast, RCS has a lower threshold of just 5% recycled content and does not include social or environmental auditing requirements.
Regenerative cotton farming
Regenerative agriculture goes beyond simply reducing harm by actively restoring ecosystems. Techniques such as cover cropping, reduced tillage and diversified crop rotations help rebuild soil health, boost biodiversity and increase carbon sequestration.
Similarly, organic farming practices protect the environment with strict criteria of no pesticides, no synthetic fertilisers, and no GM crops. In comparison, regenerative agriculture allows responsible controlled use of pesticides, with special attention to the overall ecological system prioritising soil health.
The Regenerative Cotton Standard (RCS), developed by the Aid by Trade Foundation can evidence the use of regenerative farming. This voluntary, holistic standard is designed primarily for small-scale farmers and aims to improve biodiversity, soil health and livelihoods through regenerative farming methods.
There is growing evidence that cotton grown using regenerative practices can significantly lower emissions during the cultivation phase while strengthening long-term resilience for farming communities.
Innovation in Cotton Processing: Making cotton more sustainable beyond the farm
What about reducing water usage and environmental damage caused by cotton processing? Retailers and brands need to work with suppliers to modernise wet processing or seek out suppliers who are modernising. For example:
- Modern upgraded machinery uses closed-loop systems that minimise water leakage. Look for features like overflow prevention controls and automatic water-level adjustments.
- Low-water dyes and chemicals: traditional dyes and finishing agents are notorious water guzzlers. Explore alternatives like pigment dyes and enzymatic treatments that require significantly less water.
- Water recycling and treatment: implement technologies to treat and reuse wastewater from various stages of processing. This reduces overall water consumption and minimises wastewater discharge.
A feature of Segura's traceability solution is that retailers can specifically request information from suppliers, and calculate water and carbon output based on that data.
How can retailers and brands transition to sustainable cotton
1. Understand the role of supply chain transparency
The first step in your journey is to take a closer look at your supply chain and review how you work today. Supply chain transparency – a view of the entire supply chain from raw material to end production – is key. Done successfully, this can provide retailers and brands with information regarding not only their first-tier suppliers, but all of the suppliers across and within their entire downstream supply chain. Through supply chain transparency and traceability, you’ll be able to uncover the best routes to improvement. Uncover and partner with responsible cotton producers and manufacturers to build ethical, sustainable and innovative practices.
Understanding where and how cotton is produced is essential for meaningful sustainability improvements. Mapping cotton supply chains from farm to finished product enables brands to:
- Verify certifications such as GOTS, BCI, GRS and RCS,
- Identify environmental and social risks beyond tier-one suppliers,
- Track water use, chemical inputs and emissions more accurately.
2. Introduce solutions for a greener future
Introduce innovative practices like organic farming, alternative farming methods, regenerative agriculture, and recycled cotton to minimise environmental impact. Look at the product life cycle and consider how to build innovative circular practices.3. Engage your customers
Once you have the transparency and the data you need, you can see how far you’ve come. You can then develop strategies for communicating your sustainability efforts and building a community of eco-conscious shoppers.
Then the potential rewards are significant: a thriving planet, a loyal customer base, and the satisfaction of leaving a lasting legacy of more sustainable practices and environmental responsibility.
So, is cotton sustainable?
Cotton can be sustainably sourced, but not via conventional cotton production. By shifting towards responsible sourcing standards, regenerative farming practices, cleaner processing technologies and full supply chain transparency, cotton can become a far more sustainable material.For brands and retailers, investing in sustainable cotton production is not just about risk mitigation. It is about securing future supply, meeting regulatory expectations and contributing to a more resilient and responsible fashion industry.
How Can Segura Help
For retailers committed to producing more sustainable cotton, Segura provides the traceability, transparency and data intelligence needed to drive meaningful change. Our supply chain platform enables you to map your cotton supply chain from farm to finished product, giving full visibility over fibre origin, farming practices, certifications and environmental impact.
With Segura’s n-tier mapping and digital product passport capabilities, you can verify claims around organic, regenerative or Better Cotton sourcing, monitor water usage and chemical inputs, and track carbon emissions across every stage of production. All supplier certifications, audit documentation and ESG data are securely stored in one centralised platform — creating a single, reliable source of truth.
By equipping retailers with accurate, auditable evidence, Segura helps you strengthen supplier partnerships, ensure regulatory compliance and confidently communicate sustainability progress to customers and stakeholders. The result is a more resilient, responsible cotton supply chain — and a clear pathway towards lower-impact, net-zero-aligned collections backed by robust data.
Read more on Net-Zero Materials Transition in the Fashion Industry, or take a deep dive into another fabric here:
Net-Zero Materials Transition by Fabric
Cotton Denim LeatherPolyesterViscose
Read more about Segura’s powerful supply chain traceability tools.
About Segura
Segura is the leading fashion supply chain traceability solution, empowering fashion retailers and brands to deliver ethical, sustainable and efficient multi-tier supply chains.
Segura provides n-tier mapping, transparency, traceability, visualisation, compliance and reporting. Segura sits in the centre of your supply chain management structure creating a central repository for all your supply chain, ESG-related data and evidence, including from third-party data sources.
With all supply chain traceability data stored on a single platform, our customers get the right evidence in the right place to back up claims and meet regulatory compliance.
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