Embracing net zero with cotton isn't just a green obligation, it's a strategic opportunity
Following our recent articles on; Net Zero Materials Transition in the Fashion Industry, and Net-Zero Materials Transition: Cotton, we delve into the challenges and opportunities facing the leather sector as it navigates the path towards net-zero emissions. We will explore innovative technologies, sustainable sourcing practices, and the responsibility of suppliers and retailers, regarding environmentally responsible leather products.
table of contents:
What are the Options for a Sustainable Future?
Innovation in Leather Processing
Are There Incentives for Retailers and Brands to Focus on Leather?
How can the Fashion Industry Transition to Sustainable Leather?
Why Focus on Leather?
Leather originates from a naturally renewable and sustainable raw material: animal hides and skins, and therefore has the potential to be a sustainable, net-zero material.
Leather is a versatile, durable, and historically significant material in fashion. However, the majority of leather production is industrialised using the most environmentally damaging processes. Each year, the global leather industry produces approximately 24 billion square feet of leather. Currently, the global environmental impact of leather is huge.
The key distinction between sustainable and unsustainable leather lies in the methods used during the processing stage. And while leather is processed this way, it significantly harms the environment, threatening future industry sustainability.
For retailers dealing in leather, the question arises: What steps can we take to move closer to a net-zero future?
The Problem with Leather
The major problems with leather production are deforestation, water consumption, chemical use, and pollution.
Cattle ranching, the primary source of leather, drives significant deforestation and habitat destruction. The water-intensive process of raising cattle and treating hides depletes natural water reserves and causes ecological damage.
Many people think that leather is a by-product of the meat and dairy industries, but this is not necessarily the case. In fact, the production of leather often helps drive those industries. Leather provides extra profit for the meat and dairy industries driving further production which ultimately leads to more cattle farming.
The farming of cattle for meat and leather production is responsible for 80% of Amazon deforestation. Soy production is closely linked to the leather industry and is another major cause of deforestation. Approximately 80% of soy is used as feed for cattle and other livestock. Leather production is also water intensive, taking 17,128 litres of water to create one tote bag.
In addition, industrial tanning processes, which convert raw hides into durable leather, involve heavy use of toxic chemicals like chromium. These processes produce large amounts of hazardous waste, leading to soil and water contamination.
However, even with these damning statistics, leather has the potential to move closer towards being a net-zero material and even offer a net-positive contribution if sustainable practices become the new norm.
What are the Options for a Sustainable Future?
Regenerative agriculture and ethical sourcing
The Regenerative agriculture approach involves raising cattle on regenerative farms that prioritise soil health, biodiversity, and carbon sequestration. Ethical sourcing ensures that cattle are raised in humane conditions, and deforestation is minimised. An example of this is British Pasture Leather, which was founded in 2020 as the first supplier of leather that is traceable to regenerative farms in the UK.
The Leather Working Group (LWG) is a global multi-stakeholder community committed to building a sustainable future with responsible leather. The not-for-profit organisation drives best practices and positive social and environmental change for responsible leather production. As part of these, they offer certification programmes that promote sustainable practices, including responsible water use, energy efficiency, and waste management in tanneries. These certifications can serve as a strategic stepping stone toward more sustainable leather production.
Vegetable-tanned leather
Vegetable tanning uses natural tannins from plant materials instead of synthetic chemicals. This method significantly reduces the reliance on toxic substances and promotes eco-friendly practices. It can also enhance leather's biodegradability.
However, the vegetable tanning process is longer, more expensive, and still uses quite a bit of water. It requires a skilled workforce and has limited scalability compared to conventional methods. Despite these challenges, vegetable-tanned leather is gaining popularity as consumers demand more sustainable options.
Synthetic leather
Synthetic leather as a net-zero or eco-friendly alternative to traditional leather is a complex topic with pros and cons.
It does not contribute to deforestation for cattle grazing and produces lower greenhouse gas emissions. However, most synthetic leathers are made from plastic materials such as polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which are derived from fossil fuels and contribute to plastic pollution. Unlike some types of natural leather, synthetic leather does not biodegrade easily, leading to long-term waste management issues.
Alternative materials
Innovative alternatives to traditional leather are emerging. Materials like lab-grown leather, mushroom leather (mycelium), and pineapple leather (Piñatex) offer sustainable options with lower environmental impact. Although not completely biodegradable yet, these materials often require less water and generate fewer emissions compared to conventional leather.
Innovation in Leather Processing
Revising working practices in the processing of leather can lead to significant improvements.
Reducing the environmental impact of leather processing requires collaboration between retailers and suppliers in key areas which include:
Reduced resource consumption: waterless tanning techniques and chromium-recovery systems allow tanners to reuse water and raw materials, further minimising water use and chemical impact.
Eco-friendly chemicals: using low-impact dyes and finishing agents such as vegetable and enzyme-based tanning uses fewer chemicals than traditional chrome tanning leading to a more eco-friendly production process.
Nano-coatings for enhanced durability: using these protective coatings can extend the longevity of leather products, reducing the need for replacements and reducing waste.
Recycling leather scraps: repurposing leather scraps minimises leather waste and the need for new leather.
Promoting a circular economy: the most sustainable way to use leather is to recycle and reuse leather already produced. Eco-friendly tanning can allow worn leather to be recycled or upcycled into new products.
Are There Incentives for Retailers and Brands to Focus on Leather?
Yes! The legislative landscape is pressing the fashion industry to clean up its environmental act, and this includes leather. The main areas of legislation coming into effect related to leather are:
EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR)
Companies in the EU and those that sell into the EU will need to prove their leather products are deforestation-free. This means that the farms which are used to rear the cattle, that supplied the hides, must not have been linked to deforestation after 31st December 2020. A due diligence statement will be required every year for larger companies.
EU / UK Legislation on Chemical Use
In the UK and EU, there is already legislation that applies strict controls on the presence of certain harmful chemicals in consumer leather goods. This applies to importers, manufacturers or retailers that affix branding to the product.
EU Digital Product Passport
The Digital Product Passport (DPP) is an EU initiative aimed at providing environmental information to customers purchasing textiles and footwear, and so will include leather, including chemical use and also how leather can be used in the circular economy. Read our article ‘The EU Digital Product Passport (DPP): ALL you need to know’ for more details.
How can the Fashion Industry Transition to Sustainable Leather?
Despite the complexity, duration and number of suppliers involved in the production and supply of leather, Segura's traceability solution enables retailers to track the entire leather supply chain, from farm to final product. Investing the time and effort in uncovering the people and practices involved in the supply of leather products is essential to transitioning towards a net-zero carbon-friendly future. Achieving supply chain transparency is necessary to assess and reduce the environmental impact of leather production moving forward.
How long will it take to Transition to Sustainable Leather?
Transitioning to net zero with leather is a long-term commitment. It requires time, dedication, collaboration, and a willingness to adopt new practices. Established users of Segura have found that focusing on a few significant metrics initially and working with suppliers on these areas can bring about measurable change.
Take a closer look at your supply chain: Review your current practices. Supply chain transparency and traceability are crucial in identifying the best routes to improvement. Partner with responsible leather producers and manufacturers to build ethical, sustainable, and innovative practices. Ask suppliers to provide certifications from entities such as the Leather Working Group to validate the production and processes used.
Introduce solutions for a greener future: Adopt innovative practices like vegetable tanning, regenerative agriculture, and alternative materials to minimise environmental impact. Consider the entire product life cycle and incorporate circular practices to promote sustainability.
Engage your customers: With transparency and data, you can showcase your progress. Develop strategies to communicate your sustainability efforts, building a community of eco-conscious shoppers.
The rewards are vast – a thriving planet, a loyal customer base, and the satisfaction of leaving a lasting legacy of sustainable practices and environmental responsibility.
Read more on Net-Zero Materials Transition in the Fashion Industry, or take a deep dive into another fabric here:
Net-Zero Materials Transition by Fabric
Cotton Denim LeatherPolyesterViscose
Read more about Segura’s powerful supply chain traceability tools.
About Segura
Segura is the leading fashion supply chain traceability solution, empowering fashion retailers and brands to deliver ethical, sustainable and efficient multi-tier supply chains.
Segura provides n-tier mapping, transparency, traceability, visualisation, compliance and reporting. Segura sits in the centre of your supply chain management structure creating a central repository for all your supply chain, ESG-related data and evidence, including from third-party data sources.
With all supply chain traceability data stored on a single platform, our customers get the right evidence in the right place to back up claims and meet regulatory compliance.
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