Denim is one of the world’s most popular fabrics, with over 1.3 billion people owning at least one pair of jeans. However, like many fabrics, denim has a substantial environmental footprint. As sustainability becomes a key concern in fashion, it's essential to ask: Can denim become a net-zero material?
In this article, we examine the challenges of denim production and its environmental impact. We explore potential solutions to lessen the impact and highlight some of the incredible initiatives that manufacturers and retailers are already implementing to make denim more sustainable.
Read on to discover;
Why Focus on Denim for Net Zero Material Transition?
What are the Options for a Sustainable Future?
How to Transition to Sustainable Denim
What is denim?
Denim is a sturdy, durable fabric, most commonly made from cotton. It’s woven using a traditional twill weave method where the weft (lengthwise threads) passes under two or more warp (crosswise threads). This gives denim its familiar diagonal ribbing and texture.
This traditional weave typically uses indigo-dyed yarn for the warp and undyed yarn for the weft which gives denim its characteristic blue front and lighter underside.
Historically, denim was created for workwear because of its toughness and ability to withstand wear and tear.
In addition to cotton, modern denim can also contain a small percentage of elastane (spandex) or polyester to add stretch, and flexibility, or improve durability, particularly in styles like stretch jeans. However, classic denim remains predominantly cotton-based.
Denim’s versatility has made it a wardrobe staple for many. Almost everybody has a pair of classic blue jeans (or a denim jacket, skirt or denim accessory) in their wardrobe.
Why focus on denim for net zero material transition?
According to the Worldmetrics Report 2024, the global denim market is projected to reach $113.66 billion by 2025 and 1.24 billion pairs of jeans are sold worldwide annually.
Unfortunately, denim’s widespread use comes with significant environmental impacts, primarily due to the resource-intensive processes involved in cotton cultivation, dyeing, and finishing.
The denim industry is one of the top 10 polluting industries globally and is responsible for around 1.5% of the world's total carbon emissions. Furthermore, the denim market is set to grow at a significant rate in countries including India and China. (Source: Worldmetrics Report 2024)
With denim's expanding market and significant environmental impact, retailers must answer the question: how can we transition this popular material towards a sustainable future?
THE PROBLEM WITH Denim
The major problems are:
Water Consumption - according to Levi’s water stewardship report, a pair of jeans can use up to 3,800 litres of water in its lifetime. Water is used to grow the cotton, process the fabric, and finish the final garment. From dyeing to washing, denim requires multiple rounds of wet processing which produces large amounts of wastewater. Traditional indigo dyeing and stone washing processes not only consume vast quantities of water but generate toxic wastewater as well.
Chemical use - Fast-growing cotton crops, the primary raw material for denim, require intense irrigation, chemical fertilisers, and pesticides. While cotton only takes up 2.4% of agricultural land, it accounts for 4.7% of the world’s pesticides (and 10% of insecticides).
Furthermore, bleaching and dyeing denim often involve the use of hazardous chemicals, which can contaminate local rivers and water bodies if not managed properly.
Soil Erosion - Industrial agricultural practices employed for producing the cotton used to make denim also result in the loss of carbon from the soil, the reduction of soil health and the loss of ecological diversity.
Energy Use and Emissions - The manufacturing of denim involves multiple energy-intensive stages, from spinning and weaving to dyeing and washing. Most energy used in denim production comes from fossil fuels, leading to considerable GHG (Greenhouse gas) emissions. Furthermore, stone washing and other finishing techniques that give jeans their unique textures often contribute to energy consumption as well as water waste.
Consumer Use and Disposal - Jeans are often washed frequently, contributing to water and energy usage during their lifespan. Once discarded, they typically end up in landfills, as only a small percentage of denim is recycled.
What are the options for a sustainable future?
Organic Cotton in Denim Production
The first step toward sustainable denim begins with cotton, the raw material primarily used to make denim. Organic cotton is cultivated without synthetic fertilisers, pesticides, or genetically modified organisms (GMOs). This reduces the environmental footprint of denim production and supports healthier ecosystems.
However, like organic cotton used in other textiles, its higher cost and lower yield can be problematic. Organic cotton makes up only a small fraction of the global cotton supply, approximately 1% is unable to meet the huge global demand for denim. To meet this growing demand, we need to explore not only organic cotton but other sustainable alternatives.
Regenerative Agriculture and Sustainable Cotton Sourcing
Regenerative agricultural practices are key to making cotton-based products, like denim, more sustainable. By adopting techniques that restore soil health, capture carbon, and promote biodiversity, cotton farmers can significantly reduce the environmental impact of denim production.
Initiatives like the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) work to train farmers to grow cotton more sustainably, reducing water usage, eliminating harmful chemicals, and improving social standards for workers. BCI cotton now accounts for 22% of the world’s cotton production, providing a scalable path toward sustainable denim.
For more about how to transistion cotton to net zero, read our article: Net Zero Materials Transition: Cotton.
Water-Saving Innovations in Denim Processing
Every pair of jeans goes through the same dyeing process, it is the finishing process that turns a standard pair of blue jeans into your high-fashion faded and distressed jeans.
There is traditionally a hefty water cost to achieve an authentic distressed denim look for jeans. Believe it or not, to get that aged, faded denim effect, processing has involved using chemicals, pumice stones (yes that’s why they’re called stone-washed jeans) and even sandblasting. However, new innovative methods are available now to change that.
In short, implement best practice industrial laundry processes, replace manual processes and achieve less water and chemical use. Here’s how:
Waterless Laser Washing for Denim Finishing
Ditch the harsh chemicals and pumice stones!
Laser technology can achieve similar distressed effects with minimal water usage. The wash is done using a laser that goes across the jeans and burns the wash into them. The process is very quick, and the washes look amazing. This water-free technology can give the much-wanted 'distressed' or 'vintage' look to the denim.
Air and Ozone Treatments
Replace water-intensive bleaching processes with ozone treatments that achieve a faded look without requiring gallons of water. For example, instead of using conventional water washers, Jeanologia uses air washers that extract oxygen from the atmosphere and convert it into ozone to treat garments through a controlled and safe abrasion process without the need for stones, water or chemicals.
Foam Dyeing
Brands like Wrangler are experimenting with techniques like foam dyeing, which uses 99% less water than conventional methods. These innovations, alongside better water recycling systems, could significantly reduce denim’s water footprint.
Alternative Fibres
Some companies are exploring alternatives to traditional cotton in denim production. For example, hemp, bamboo, and recycled fibres can be blended with cotton to reduce water usage and dependency on virgin cotton crops.
Afends is an Australian company leading the way in this respect, producing jeans in organic cotton and hemp blends.
While these alternatives may not fully replace cotton, they can lower the overall environmental burden of the fabric.
Recycled Denim and Circular Fashion
Recycling denim is another promising solution. By breaking down old denim garments and reusing the fibres, manufacturers can reduce the environmental impact of denim production. This process, known as mechanical recycling, prevents waste from ending up in landfills while minimising the demand for virgin cotton. Textile waste can be repurposed into raw material, and Recover™ recycles denim fibres that can be incorporated back into textile production, allowing the industry to move towards a closed-loop model. Another option is using recycled cotton fibres to create new denim products.
Currently, some brands have successfully introduced recycled denim lines. For example, EVL denim transforms denim destined for landfill into timeless denim pieces which even include made-to-measure jeans and jackets.
Circular fashion, which emphasises designing products for longevity, repairability, and recyclability, is gaining traction. Brands leading the way with fantastic initiatives include Mud Jeans who offer a repair service for their customers.
Furthermore, through initiatives like take-back programs, brands can encourage customers to return worn-out jeans, which are then recycled into new products.
Mud Jeans also has a take-back program for recycling older products.
Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy
Denim manufacturers are increasingly investing in renewable energy sources such as solar and wind power to run their factories. Efforts to reduce energy consumption through more efficient machinery, heat recovery systems, and shorter production cycles help to lower the carbon emissions of denim manufacturing.
Offsetting Emissions
In instances where reducing emissions is not entirely possible, brands can invest in carbon offset projects, such as reforestation or renewable energy initiatives, to neutralise their carbon footprint. Some companies have begun offering carbon-neutral denim lines that balance their emissions through offset programs. However, any offsetting measures need to be monitored in line with current legislation as more sustainable practices may be required.
Consumer Behavior's Role
Achieving net-zero denim isn't just a question of better production; consumer behaviour also plays a role. Encouraging people to buy fewer, higher-quality jeans that last longer, reduce washing, and properly recycle old denim can substantially lower the environmental impact. The slow fashion movement, which emphasises quality over quantity, is gaining traction as consumers become more aware of the environmental costs of their clothing.
Levis is one company setting trends in this area. In 2021, they launched their Buy Better, Wear Longer campaign — a mantra and movement that encourages more conscious purchasing decisions.
Can Denim ever be Net Zero?
The answer could be yes!
Crystal Denim, the denim division of Crystal International has produced what it claims to be the first-ever pair ever net zero jeans.
The jeans were created with low environmental impact using sustainable materials. They reduced carbon emissions during manufacturing by using laser technology, solar power, energy-efficient washing machines, and advanced dryers. They balanced any leftover emissions by supporting a tree-planting program in Nicaragua.
How to Transition to Sustainable Denim
Companies must embrace new practices and technologies while focusing on key areas that can drive measurable change. Companies using Segura’s platform have found that starting with a few significant metrics and partnering with suppliers in these areas can lead to substantial improvements in a shorter period.
Take a closer look at your supply chain: Begin by reviewing your current denim production practices prioritising transparency and traceability. Measure the environmental impact of products and supply chains accurately. Work closely with responsible denim producers, manufacturers, and recyclers to develop ethical, sustainable, and innovative approaches.
Introduce solutions for a greener future: Embrace innovative practices and explore ways to incorporate circularity into denim design. Consider using alternative materials and methods that minimise environmental impact while examining the entire product life cycle for opportunities to reduce waste and emissions.
Engage your customers: Use transparency and data to highlight your progress in making denim more sustainable. Develop strategies to communicate your efforts, building a community of eco-conscious shoppers who support your commitment to environmental responsibility. Technologies Segura provides, such as their digital product passport, give consumers information on the sustainability of the garments they purchase, enhancing transparency and promoting eco-conscious consumerism.
Read more on Net-Zero Materials Transition in the Fashion Industry, or take a deep dive into another fabric here:
Net-Zero Materials Transition by Fabric
Cotton Denim LeatherPolyesterViscose
Read more about Segura’s powerful supply chain traceability tools.
About Segura
Segura is the leading fashion supply chain traceability solution, empowering fashion retailers and brands to deliver ethical, sustainable and efficient multi-tier supply chains.
Segura provides n-tier mapping, transparency, traceability, visualisation, compliance and reporting. Segura sits in the centre of your supply chain management structure creating a central repository for all your supply chain, ESG-related data and evidence, including from third-party data sources.
With all supply chain traceability data stored on a single platform, our customers get the right evidence in the right place to back up claims and meet regulatory compliance.
To keep up to date with our latest news; subscribe to our newsletter
To learn more about how Segura can help you manage your supply chain; contact us today
